Roadside views in Nicaragua: Chinandega, Léon, Managua

Leaving our little paradise in Jiquilillo meant also leaving the peace and quiet and returning to the constant blaring of reggaeton. It’s been pretty much the same ten songs since Mexico and somehow people seem to like to play five of them on loop. Don’t get me wrong, I like reggaeton but there’s a time and a place for it and 6 am is definitely not that time haha.

The road to Chinandega was a bit hilly and very scenic.

We stopped in Chinandega for lunch (17 chicken nuggets are a decent lunch, no?) and then got into some pretty heavy rain on the way to Léon, but at least it cooled down a little bit due to the rain.

Léon is very similar to Antigua, Guatemala, just a bit bigger and with more locals. We really liked the chill vibe of it. Whereas in many places on the road, nobody seems to go out after dark, in Léon there’s actually still stuff going on and you can still find restaurants and shops open at 8/9 pm.

(I didn’t take a lot of pictures in Léon.)

We really enjoyed our breakfast at “El Desayunazo.” Great food, big portions for a decent price plus many locals went there as well which is usually a good sign.

Apart from at Rancho Esperanza in Jiquilillo, where the food was good and actually nutritious, and Léon, we’ve really struggled with finding decent food in Nicaragua. For me, that has made the cycling pretty difficult too because it’s already very hot and then having “disappointing” lunchbreaks with shitty food (fried chicken and soggy fries don’t give you much energy) is not very motivating. Even finding rice and beans hasn’t been easy, most places on the way to Managua had only fries. We even had a day where we felt too tired to cook or head out and struggle to find something decent. In Managua, we then had the worst of all meals, possibly of all times, when we tried to have steak. New York steak they said…

While we have our beloved MSR Whisperlite International, which we use for breakfast and dinner on most days, for lunch we have to find something on the road because we don’t have time to get the stove out and start cooking. And that lunch meal really determines how you cycle during the afternoon, so that has been quite tricky.

Another thing that has made it difficult for me to enjoy Nicaragua as much as the other countries we’ve visited is the constant staring. I feel like I’m in the Middle East. And there are lots of other white women here and we’ve seen local women on bicycles, so what’s this about? I talked to other European girls about this and they’ve had exactly the same experience. I didn’t have that in any other country, we’ve cycled through.

Also on the road, there has been a lot less encouragement compared to the other countries, here it’s really been rather exceptional that somebody waved. Even children have been shouting swear words at us, which we didn’t have anywhere so far. In general, people have been a lot less kind than for example in El Salvador. Maybe my expectations were too high because everyone we met who was coming from the South told us that “Nicaragua is soo amazing, soo cheap, people are soo kind and it’s just wow.” Maybe it is very cheap if you’re coming from Costa Rica, but it’s not much cheaper than El Salvador and definitely a lot more expensive than Guatemala and Mexico.

The landscape has been quite stunning. On the way from Léon to Managua we saw a smoking volcano, which was pretty cool.

A little girl on a horse

And some more volcanos:

The locals also reaaallly load their bikes here.

I guess the kid wasn’t too happy about me taking a picture but I didn’t really have a chance to ask him. Sorry!

Hassan had his first flat tire but we actually fixed it ourselves, yay!

And some shots of Managua:

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The cycle touring gear

Let’s talk about the gear, there are of course many options depending on your budget and how long you’re planning to cycle and how willing you are to fix things on the road.

We opted for a cheaper setup as we wanted to try out this way of travelling before fully committing but we still looked for decent quality.

Most of our gear is either from Sportsdirect, Mountain Warehouse or Amazon.

All you really need a bicycle, everything else can be improvised. 😉

Bike and camping stuff

  • Our bikes are standard mountain bikes that we bought in Cancún and fitted with steel racks. There are special touring bikes, but essentially it depends on the terrain you’re going through.
  • A bike repair kit and some extra tubes etc. You can get by relying on mechanics in more populated areas but the more remote the places are that you’re cycling in the better should be your repair skills. I still haven’t changed a tube or tire but I think I could. 😀 I just always get my flats in the vicinity of mechanics.
  • An adjustable wrench has been a life-saver, as it allows you to tighten all the bolts on the bike (think front- and backrack, saddle, etc)
  • You should get Schwalbe Marathon tires, as those are unanimously the best tires out there. We don’t have them (and wish we would have bought them) and I’ve had three flat tires, we met a French cyclist who had 13 flats over the same distance. You see, you can make due without them but they are very handy and lift a big worry off you.
  • Get a good saddle!!! By ‘good’ I mean good for you. We met men with women’s saddles and vice versa so it really is about you. Try it out, cycle a few hours in it, find what is comfortable!
  • We opted not to have panniers and just strap our backpacks on the racks which works as well, but panniers are just a lot more practical and you have less annoying business with bungees. Ortlieb is the best brand for panniers, they’re waterproof and robust.
  • We love our M-wave Ottawa waterproof handlebar bags, they’re just really great. You can easily unclip them and carry them on your shoulder, so we like to keep our valuables in there, passport, phone, camera and some snacks. Snacks are always good haha.
  • Our water filter, the Sawyer Mini, allows us to drink any tap water anywhere without having to worry.
  • For our clothes we have dry bags which we have strapped to the front rack, as you can see in the picture. Mine is light green (and slightly bigger) and Hassan’s is dark green.
  • You can never have enough bungees, they break or get loose or you need to restrap some of your stuff. They’re just really handy.
  • We have a three-man-tent, the Vango Ark 300. It’s perfect for two and if we’re already only hanging out with eachother for three months, you don’t want to be squished in the tent.
  • Bringing your own stove makes you a lot more independent, so in my opinion it’s absolutely worth it. We usually only use it for dinner and sometimes for breakfast but it just gives you more of a homey feeling on the road. We have an MSR Whisperlite International which is very small, works with pretty much anything from alcohol to fuel and is hence a really brilliant piece of kit.
  • Two pots, cups, bowls. We had these cool spoon-fork-knife in one plastic thingies but I broke mine in the first week and Hassan’s broke recently as well. So I had to ‘organise’ a spoon and a fork.
  • I have just a normal self-inflating sleeping mat from Mountain warehouse and Hassan has a very light-weight inflatable one. If you’re willing to spend a little more than us, you should get a Therm-a-rest. I also have a small travel pillow which definitely increases the quality of my sleep.
  • We did bring our sleeping bags but rarely used them. Most of the time it’s just too hot. What we use all the time are our sleeping bag liners, you can either sleep in them or use them as a cover.
  • A Swiss army knife or a leatherman.
  • Headtorches are very useful, make sure to have some spare batteries.
  • Asspads from Karrimor are nice if you’re sitting outside your tent and make concrete a bit more comfortable.

Electronics

  • A kindle is the best thing to have on a trip like this. There are loads of free books and whenever you have WiFi you can also buy new ones.
  • For navigation we use our smartphones with the apps Maps.me and sometimes Komoot, but mainly Maps.me. Maps.me has been really great in Mexico and Belize, but then in Guatemala it sometimes led us to rivers we couldn’t cross and since El Salvador the bicycle route is always with random detours. We also have a GPS device, a Garmin etrex 20, that we really like. You can download free maps for any part of the world and it looks like a big old Nokia, which doesnt attract any attention.
  • A solar panel comes in pretty handy but is optional in my opinion. If you’re gonna be in very remote areas, it may be worth considering.
  • I have a Nikon D50, an older DSLR, that I take pictures with when it seems okay to take out. Often I also just use my phone as it attracts less attention.

Clothes and cosmetics

  • First-aid-kit and Leukotape (brilliant for blisters or overscratched mosquito bites)
  • Sunscreen (the higher the better, you will get a funny tan anyways but skin protection is super important)
  • Insect repellent (mosquitos have been our constant companions)
  • Lip balm (ideally with LSF as your lips might burn too)
  • If you have long hair it’s a good idea to bring some conditioner.
  • We each have two Merino t-shirts and we really couldn’t do without them. Wool in the heat? Yes, merino is simply the best, it doesn’t smell (you still stink but your t-shirt doesn’t), it dries very quickly and absorbs sweat much better. Read more about why merino shirts are the ultimate travel shirts here. Btw there are also merino dress shirts that don’t wrinkle! Definitely worth the money!
  • Cycling gloves (maybe even a spare pair because you might lose them somewhere or yours might fall apart)
  • Comfortable shorts to cycle in (one or two)
  • A dress or a dress shirt (quick way to dress up a little bit)
  • I have flip flops and some walking shoes which means I also need lots of socks, while Hassan has cycling shoes (from Merrell) which have holes in them so your feet don’t get too hot or smelly. In that case you can ditch the socks. Beware of stones, sand or ants getting into the shoe though! 😉
  • Lots of underwear (the more you have the less you have to wash)
  • Rain jacket or poncho

Food

  • Usually tea and oats (milk powder and water works great) for breakfast, if we’re motivated enough to start the stove. Otherwise we’ll just find a place and then it’s usually eggs with rice and beans.
  • We get lunch on the road. It’s definitely not easy to always find decent food (17 chicken nuggets are sort of nutritious, right? Lots of protein…)
  • We do make dinner ourselves quite often. It’s usually pasta with tomato sauce and eggs (either boiled or in with the pasta like shakshuka). Sometimes we add lentils or cheese. Or we make some dhaal and rice.
  • Nuts and dried fruit makes for great snacks on the road and it’s really what keeps us going (apart from a cold Coca-Cola sometimes, although we usually don’t really drink soft drinks, on the road it really helps!)

Let me know if you have any suggestions or comments, what your setup looks like or if I have left out anything important!

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A small paradise in Nicaragua

Our boat ride to Nicaragua turned out better than planned. We thought we’d go with one of these boats:

They look pretty nice like this but I’m not so sure about loading them with two fully loaded bicycles. Also, as we watched people get onto these they had to walk through the water to get into the boat as those boats weren’t using the pier.

We organised the trip with Mario after Hassan found an email address in someone else’s blog. Mario seems to be the only person operating these boats from La Union, El Salvador, to Potosi, Nicaragua. You can reach him on WhatsApp (503) – 7282 4362 or via email (golfo_fonseca@hotmail.com), we paid 55 US $ per person after bargaining a little. Without the bikes he might have agreed to 50 $ per person. His son ferried us over in a really nice boat (it takes about 1,5 h), they loaded our bikes (and us) from the pier and even had a protective cover for the bikes. Definitely the most enjoyable boat ride on this trip.

Adios, La Union!

Adios El Salvador! #dontskipelsalvador #itsawesomethere

These are part of Honduras!

The first view of Nicaragua! First border crossed by boat, check! Imigration in Potosi was pretty easy as Mario had already sent the border guard pictures of our passports, so we were expected.

From there we cycled on dirt road for about 15 km with a little break for lunch as it was very hot. Since we reached the Pacific coast we haven’t had any rain and it’s been very hot, usually around 30-35 C which makes long lunchbreaks even more necessary.

We (and mostly our asses) were very glad when we reached the better road (where the red star is marked on the map) in the direction of Chinandega. Cows as well as horses seem to roam around here freely.

As it was still very hot in the afternoon and we had only been able to start cycling around 11 am because of the boat ride and immigration, we realised that we wouldn’t be able to reach Chinandega. Therefore we decided to turn towards the beach and spend the night near Jiquilillo. It was just another six kilometers but on the worst dirt road we have encountered so far and our bums were already in quite some pain before we got on it. Once on it there was no turning back and we made it to the beach just in time for sunset.

Fortunately we met a Dutch guy at the beach who told us it would be possible to stay at the hostel he was staying at, that it wasn’t too far and that Nate, the owner, was a really nice guy. And that’s how we got to Rancho Esperanza.

Tired, in pain and just searching for a place to pitch our tent for a night.

We certainly didn’t expect to find the small (surfer’s) paradise that we found there. So we stayed a little bit longer!

At Rancho Esperanza, there is no WiFi, so quite naturally you start talking to the other guests. 😉 We’ve gotten to know such lovely people there, it’s really been the best hostel I’ve been at. No crazy party people, but lots of like-minded travellers. Some of them mentioned that at the beach in Jiquilillo was an American guy who was buying turtle eggs from the poachers and then released the baby turtles into the ocean, every day at this time of the year around sunset, so naturally we wanted to see that.

We didn’t find the American guy, but we found Simone instead.

She’s a German lady and spend three months every year in Jiquilillo buying the turtle eggs, putting them into the sand, waiting for the babies to hatch and then releasing them into the ocean.

She works voluntarily for the German non-profit organisation Meeresschildkrötenschutzverein Nicaragua (sea turtle protection organisation Nicaragua) that collects donations in order to buy the turtle eggs and protect the Olive Ridley turtle. Check them out on Facebook, maybe even consider a donation! They’re also always looking for volunteers! In the last seven years they have released over 60 000 baby turtles, how cool is that?

You might wonder why they buy the eggs from the poachers, as this supports the poachers’ business, right? Jiquilillo is a small fishing village in a pretty poor area and poaching turtle eggs provides some kind of income for the people. As long as they have no other economic opportunities, telling them it’s wrong won’t make them stop poaching, so the more realistic approach is indeed to buy the eggs from them and hence simultaneously protect the turtles and support the locals. Additionally, poaching turtle eggs isn’t illegal in Nicaragua yet unfortunately.

We watched the turtle release one sunset and then came back at sunrise to see the nests, the freshly hatched babies and to release some more babies.

It’s just such an amazing feeling to watch them crawl into the ocean for the first time!

The rest of our time at Rancho Esperanza was spent reading in a hammock, walking at the beach or chatting with other travellers about their experiences. If you’re ever in the vicinity, I can only recommend Rancho Esperanza to you. It felt a lot more like a community centre than a hostel and it’s doing a lot for the local community by providing education and activities, such as English and computer classes or surf lessons for local kids. They are also always looking for Spanish-speaking volunteers!

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Volcano views in El Salvador

The casual appearance of volcanos on the horizon and next to the roads we cycle has been one of my favourite things about El Salvador. I already loved the volcanos in Guatemala and especially at Lake Atitlan because they are such impressive parts of nature. Volcanos really remind you of the strength of nature and the earth or at least that’s what they’re doing to me.

From El Tunco we cycled to La Libertad which is a lot more buzzling and there are barely any tourists. We were hoping to get a bus to Usulután, but they told us we had to take a smaller bus to Comalapa and another bus from there. We got on the bus, paid our five dollars (which the bus driver seemed way too happy about) and started the journey. Turns out it really wasn’t a smart choice. The bus stopped all the time, as whenever there’s someone waiting at the road the buses here stop, although there are also some actual bus stops. In the end the 30 km took us 1,5h and the road had been pretty flat and cyclable. What a fail!

When we got to Comalapa we decided against getting another bus and just got on our bikes, although it was nearly sunset already. We cycled about 10 km before we had to stop and look for a place to camp. We stopped in a small village near river Jiboa and asked around if anyone knew a space where we could pitch our tent. A 30-something woman with a small kid told us that we could stay at her place and we followed her.

It turned out that the spot she had in mind was a sort of communal area between a few houses. When I asked for the toilet she led me to the communal toilet a few houses (house is a bit too big of a word, most of these houses consisted of one room but they were built out of concrete) away. This was probably the worst toilet I’ve ever seen with many dead and few alive cockroaches. I mean, I can start to see spiders as friends because I know how useful they are in eating other insects that I don’t exactly like but I’ll never be able to not find cockroaches horrible. But I sucked it up, used the bathroom and got back to the entrance where we pitched our tent.

The place was fenced in, we were off the road, there was space for our tent, we had food with us to cook and the woman allowed us to use her water, so we were still pretty well off. Cycling at night simply isn’t an option.

The next morning we left early and cycled through Zacatecoluca towards Usulután. Just a few kilometers before Zacatecoluca I had another flat tire. The third one so far, but always the back tire. Hassan has been pretty lucky with his tires so far.

Luckily we found a mechanic after a few hundred meters as our pump broke when we tried to fix it ourselves. So we only lost about an hour.

The Lempa river is the biggest river in El Salvador and also goes through Honduras and Guatemala.

Just shortly before Usulután we came across another volcano. So cool to just casually cycle past them!

In Usulután we first met Aurelio, a Salvadoran cyclist with an awesome blog (check his stuff on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube).

And then we met Dominique and Michel, a French cyclist couple, who stayed in the same motel as us. Cycle touring really connects you, and as Dominique and Michel have been on the road for six years and were coming from the South where we are going, we had a lot to talk about during dinner and breakfast. As the two of them are heading towards Mexico we could also share some tips with them. You can check out their blog here.

Filled with excitement about the magic and freedom of cycle touring we left Usulután and headed towards La Union from where we’re planning to get a boat to Nicaragua.

A slow but continuous climb that took us about two hours. The locals have quite a cool way to get down.

After 85 km I was too tired to keep going for the last 25 km, so we stopped at a small village near El Tamarindo, where we camped on the football pitch.

The next day we got up at 5.30 am with the sunrise and cycled to La Union. We decided to take a much needed rest day at the pool of the Comfort Inn Hotel.

We really enjoyed ourselves there, very comfortable beds, great food, panoramic view and this awesome pool. You just need to cool off when it’s 35 C (real feel 41 C). Our room was 50$ (including the breakfast buffet) which doesnt seem unreasonable for what they offer. El Salvador is definitely not cheap, so far I’d say Guatemala was the cheapest, then Mexico, El Salvador and Belize was the most expensive one.

La Union itself is a cute little town with great views towards Honduras from the pier.

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El Salvador’s surfing beaches: El Zonte, El Tunco and the Last Resort

El Salvador’s name in indigenous language is Cuscatlán, which translates to Land of Jewels. And that’s precisely what we found.

El Salvador has a somewhat bad reputation for being the most dangerous country outside of war zones, which probably has some basis in fact, but does not relate at all to our experience of the country. People have been incredibly welcoming and encouraging on the road and we haven’t felt unsafe at all.

Of course, we always take some reasonable precautions anywhere we go anyways, we stay off the roads at night, already out of visibility reasons, and we don’t flash any valuables. Not that we carry many anyways. Our GPS pretty much looks like a fat old Nokia and a lot of locals have better smartphones than us.

As I mentioned in my previous post, wasn’t feeling too well when we entered El Salvador and I wasn’t very motivated to cycle due to that. That lack of cycle motivation actually got me quite worried, as I thought, okay, we’re a bit further than half way and I don’t enjoy it anymore? I want a proper bed, a proper bathroom and a washing machine. But we still have more than six weeks and fifteen hundred kilometers to go….

The first few days back on the bike were quite tough, especially when we got on the mountain road at the coast which is beautiful and very scenic but also a constant uphill and downhill. No flat bits of road there and high frustration levels if after ever struggle uphill, awesome downhill comes another struggle uphill. That’s just mentally quite tough but especially hard when you don’t feel up to your best.

It’s quite well represented on this map, where the road goes in a constant zigzag, it’s a constant uphill/downhill. That’s just the way it is, for the best views you gotta work!

So we just took it slow, so that my stomach and I could recover and thankfully all my excitement for cycle touring came back! Cycle touring really isn’t always fun, sometimes it’s just tough going but at other times it’s just pure awesome! And the climbs usually lead to some awesome downhills as well. What could be better than speeding down a mountain with 50-60 km/h on your bicycle?

The first 20-30 kilometers were pretty flat and had some lovely views.

For lunch we found the Last Resort at Mizata, where they were kind enough to let us use their pool. This was probably the best lunchbreak ever!

Some more views from the road:

The night, we spent in La Perla camping in the garden of a local family. We were pretty lucky as the family that owned the shop where we got our dinner offered us their garden for our tent and had as well running water, toilet and shower in the garden. And the sweetest dog ever!!

The next day we made our way to El Zonte where we had some great grilled fish for 5$ (El Salvador doesn’t have its own currency but uses US dollars instead).

We also got to watch some surfers in El Zonte.

The following night we stayed in El Tunco which is a pretty little surfing town.

Before we left the next day Hassan went for a quick swim in the ocean!

A note for fellow cyclists who want to take that route, bring some good torches as you have to go through a few tunnels up to 600 m long. The roads in El Salvador are in general pretty good, there’s a big shoulder, cars give you space when you need to cycle on the road and there’s a lot of shade which makes cycling in the heat a lot more bearable!

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Tougher days

We stayed another day in Monterrico, as I was struck with Montezuma’s revenge and just wasn’t feeling well in general. After resting for a day in the hammock at the pool at Johnny’s Place I felt good enough to tackle the next bit of the road so we set out towards Taxisco.

From Monterrico you can take a sort of ferry through the mangroves for about four kilometres that saves you cycling around the whole thing so that’s super handy and includes some pretty great views.

I thoroughly enjoyed the boat trip for just 20 quetzales (about 2£), they also take cars so that seems a pretty common way to save a few kilometres.

It was very hot and in parts almost looked more like Africa.

While we were cycling I started to feel really low on energy and quite dizzy. Even the usual cure for heat and tiredness, a cold bottle of Coca-Cola, didn’t make me feel any better and just two kilometres before we reached Taxisco I felt like I just couldn’t go on anymore. Those two kilometres could as well have been twenty.

We finally reached the town and found the bus stop where we waited for the bus to the border. I just felt really bad, very hot, feverish, teary, nauseous and tired. But I also didn’t wanna stay in Taxisco because it wasn’t exactly a very nice place. So getting the bus still seemed to be the better option. They threw our bikes up on the roofs and there we went. We paid 90 quetzales for us two and the bikes, so that wasn’t too bad.

Suddenly there seemed to be some uproar in the bus as we stopped next to another bus und people frantically switched busses while we sat relaxed, convinced we were in the right one until some other passengers alerted us that they had moved our bicycles to the other bus. Guess our bikes wanted to make it to the border by themselves. We made a run for it and with a lot of honking they got the other bus to stop and wait for us!

We finally reached the border and decided to cross and then find a hotel on the Salvadoran side. No problems at the border, apart from people jumping the queue…. Welcome to El Salvador!

I still wasn’t feeling any better, so we just went to the next hotel where I collapsed into bed after a quick shower. The night was hot and feverish and the next day wasn’t much better so we still stayed in that tiny border town in El Salvador where it was actually quite a challenge even to find food.

In those moments, when you’re already feeling bad, there isn’t much excitement to be cycling through Central America left. Of course, even when you’re fine you’re simply not always happy to be on the road because sometimes it’s just really hard.

You miss friends and family, feeling clean, putting on some nice clothes (as handy as cargo shorts and merino t-shirts are), coming home and just watching a nice film on the couch, having a full fridge and only having to switch on the kettle when you want some tea, hot showers and running water, supermarkets that have everything, etc. Aka just your normal life where you don’t have to pack up everything you have (with you) every day on your bike.

Don’t get me wrong, both of us are very aware what a privilege it is to be travelling like this and we are grateful for it and wouldn’t want to change it for the world, but I also think it’s important to be honest and not pretend that everything is awesome all the time. It is a very humbling experience and you really learn not to take things for granted the way we have them in Western Europe.

It is one thing to know that water is precious but it is another one to experience it. What a luxury it is that we have drinking water coming out of the tap in many countries in Europe! Of course, I knew that before but filtering all the water you drink makes you feel the fact in a different way.

We have many amazing moments on this trip where we almost can’t believe how lucky we are to be experiencing these, but sometimes also very deep lows.

Lying feverish with diarrhea in a hotel room in a tiny border town in El Salvador was definitely rather a low one. But the second day I started feeling a little better so (also to free Hassan from being stuck there without even being sick) we got a bus to jump-start our way a little bit and just to get going. I also really didn’t feel up for cycling again.

That left us at this junction from where we continue our way slowly but surely down the coast. Cycle touring is like many things in life, you just gotta keep going!

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To the Pacific

From Lake Atitlan, we had a full day of going downhill which was pretty awesome as long as there weren’t too many potholes.

Our route to the Pacific coast looked something like this:

Once we got out of the mountains, we cycled through green fields with a few hills, a landscape not so different from the UK or other parts of Europe.

Then we left the nice and smooth road and got on a dirtroad towards La Gomera (not the island ;)).

Then we had to cross a river but luckily with the advice of the locals we found the spot where there is a sort of ferry.

After the river it was a good 20 km further on the dirt road until we reached La Gomera, where we spent the night. The next day we hoped to reach Puerto San Jose and thus the Pacific coast. We got back onto dirt road through some corn fields in the blazing heat.

Again, our map led us to a river, this time we didn’t find a boat though, so we had to turn back to the previous crossroad where we waited in the shade of a tree for the heat to lessen a bit. Fortunately, a local guy on a motorcycle came by and told us which way to go towards Puerto San Jose and most importantly that it was indeed possible from where we were. I had been quite worried that we would have to go all the way back to La Gomera. Although that was only 15 km, on the paths in the field and in the heat, that could take easily another 1,5h. So, thank God we could continue forward through the fields.

The first glimpse of the ocean at the horizon.

And then we finally made it into Puerto San Jose, those last 20 km on smooth roads felt pretty smooth indeed. Especially after 35 km on dirt roads….

What a welcome! Nothing better than jumping into the warm water of the Pacific after a hot and long day of cycling.

After waking up to this nice view and some awesome coffee, we cycled further down the coast to Monterrico.

At Johnny’s Place we found a lovely little oasis with a pool and direct access to the beach.

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